Thank you so much, particularly for the effort of photographing and uploading. I'll have to try this. Cut the needle off about an inch or so and sharpen. Bad grain of the dowel might require trying the other end of the dowel. Jesus, sorry, forgot to mention in my last post it is a way to extract sound posts from the inst looking into the S-hole. If you sharpen the end of the need very roughly you don't have to press too hard with the pin to lift the post out.
I spent like 10 minutes of more fishing it out: violin upside down, rolling side to side until the sound post finally came to rest over the f hole where I picked it up with some very fine twizers. It's just the reverse for me: it takes me 1 minute to remove the sound post out and 10 to place it in.
I like to rotate the post back and forth as I try to see if the post is sitting square on the bottom and the top. Just trying to see if it would really work for the way I like to set the post.. I mean what would keep the post from spinning in the tool as I am rotating it to check the fit. Very ingenious tool. This would certainly help some people set a sound post. A couple of things to keep in mind: The grain of the soundpost should be perpendicular to the grain of the top, so you should mark the soundpost pencil so that you know which side you should have facing towards the c bout.
Sometimes this involves taking the post in and out several times to get the fit correct. A couple of photos of my 'country boy tinkerer' remedy for the frustrations of mastering the conventional postsetter. Also used to retrieve the post from the violin body.
Short piece of steel tubing for spring seat and a clip of heat-shrink tubing to keep the post-claw captured in the tube. The knob is a piece of plastic rod scrap. Works well enough for me that I plan on a few possible design changes when I get some spare time. After a few minutes of practice with this, it turned inserting, removing and adjusting a sound post into a trivial endeavor for me. I used the more traditional poke-a-hole-into-the-post tool for quite a while.
It took a lot of practice to get decent using that tool. I do not use it anymore. Without the front notch conventional method ,how do you rotate the post if it's not standing at right angle around its own axis? I need to reorganize my 'down time' At a greatly reduced price of course. I use a traditional sound post tool inserted through bass side for initial setting and then adjust through the treble side.
I wonder if the OP or International Violin tool with contact at more than one point would let me have a better feel for the actual tension on the sound post.
I use the traditional sound post setter, but insert the post though the bass side too like mrfiddle. I leave that setter attached to the post with the post in as close as possible to the correct position. Then I use another tool I made to move the post very slightly into the best spot.
I do this as I am rotating the post around its own axis , like it was described by Koo Young Chung. I first get the bottom fitting well , and then I get the top fitted good. Now you see why I question how well these other tools would help me. I guess I could make a tool similar to the one "Jesus" has posted hear, but that would work though the bass side. My concern is , would it hold the post tight enough so I could rotate it in the way I have just described? I haven't been following this thread, so excuse me for butting in.
I know there are all levels of experts and abilities reading this thread and commenting, and I assume that there are many who are dealing with commercial instruments where time is as important as perfectly set, perfectly fitting posts. What I question in some of the new devices is whether they allow the feedback to the repairman. If they offer the same ability to be aware of how the post is fitting, then I don't see a thing wrong with them. But I doubt that most of them could. All I can see is that they might be convenient to get a post upright quickly, and close to where it should go; it seems the traditional setter would still be needed for the "fine tuning.
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Share More sharing options Followers 0. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2. Recommended Posts. Posted October 23, Resetting a sound post using this tool requires the usual patience and delicacy, but the design positively positions the initial post location and vertical alignment.
Repairers who occasionally encounter instrument interior surfaces that are mis-contoured due to wear, table sinkage, or extremely peculiar arching, will find the Gemini useful. Although adjusting the post location is best accomplished using a traditional setter for tapping, the user of Gemini can easily re-install the post in a slightly different location.
I recommend this tool not only for teachers who must occasionally upright a fallen sound post, but also for experienced repairers. It may well become a popular retail item at shop counters. One must admit that, indeed, it does work.
Below is a step by step pictorial description showing the proper use of the tool. Step 1 Check to see that both ends of the confiner line are threaded through the setter forming a loop around the sound post saddle. Loosen the thumb screw to allow the line to move freely. Step 2 Position the sound post in the cradle and hold it in position. Step 3 Pull the line to tighten the line around the sound post and tighten the thumb screw snugly to hold it in place.
Step 4 Hold the sound post setter vertically over the instrument with the sound post over the setting location and the tube of the setter over the f-hole. Loosen the sound post slightly and rotate the sound post in the setter so the angles on the top and bottom match the curvature of the top and back.
Re-tighten the sound post. Note the position of the setter as this will be the position you will match when setting the post. Step 5 With the sound post now securely in the setter, carefully insert the sound post and setter through the f-hole and work the sound post into position holding it vertical and gently pulling the sound post towards you until you feel it wedge into position. Step 6 When the sound post is securely in position between the top and back, loosen the thumb screw and capture one free end of the line.
Gently remove the sound post setter from the instrument.
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